Bull Ring in Seville
Bull Ring in Seville

By Sara Millbank

In Seville for two days, my husband and I found ourselves looking for a somewhere to visit out of the rain. In front of us came the answer - the Seville Bull Ring. Then we had a dilemma - neither of us agreed with Bull fighting but nor had we ever seen it. Well it was November so out of season and just a tour so perhaps we would get an insight to one of Spain's oldest traditions.

In we went and paid 5 euros each to be told the tour started on the hour and was in English and Spanish. From the outside it looked quiet a small but well keep, but once inside, you immediately got a sense of very high ceilings and very thick walls. When the tour guide arrived exactly on the hour, we were allowed through double doors at least fifteen to twenty feet high.

Immediately we are at the main entrance to the ring La Puerta del Principe (the Princes Gate) which has beautiful 16th century iron gates, originally from a convent and made by Pedro Roldan. Even today, the Torero (bullfighter) will be carried through these gates on audience's shoulders after an outstanding performance. We are told to look for a slight slope in the arena as it is higher in the centre. This is to give the bullfighter an advantage and allows him to sprint to the barricade, while the bull has to stop to avoid crashing into it.

After the gates we move to the seating area with a wonderful view of the arena. This magnificent bullring is one of the oldest, second only to Ronda, and considered by many to be the finest in Spain. There is seating for 14,000 people (only Malaga's ring is bigger) and despite the size, it is possible to hear and see from anywhere you sit. Tickets start at around 8 euros up to 80euros and above, depending where you sit. Seating in the shade varies from those in the sun and most fights are on Sunday evenings.

The corrida (bullfighting) season starts on Easter Sunday and finishes in the middle of October. Many celebrated matadors appear during Feria week at the end of April. Other important fights take place on 10th June, 15th August, the last week of September and the 12th October. We are told in perfect English that the building was built from 1762 - 1881 by a succession of architects. It is now owned by a conglomerate of 100 wealthy mostly business people who take it in turns to sit in the royal enclosure.

Next we visit the small museum, which has a collection of memorabilia dating from the 18th century to the present day. There are costumes from famous Sevillano toreros like Juan Belmonte and Joselito El Gallo who fought when they were just 14 years old. There are also bull's heads, old poster's and paintings and even a section on Rita Hayworth who visited the bullring in the 1960's with her second husband Orson Welles and whose father came from Seville.

Finally we are shown the little chapel where the bullfighters pray before entering the ring and the small hospital where toreros are given emergency treatment. The stalls for the bulls and horses are next door with 8 stalls for the bulls, although there are only ever 6 fights in one night, 2 extra are always brought.

Whether we agree with bull fighting or not, it is clear that the Spanish are very proud of their bullrings and fighters. The whole tour was very interesting and I would recommend it if you have an hour to spare next time your in Seville. If there was a bull fight on inside I am sure I would have felt differently. If you want more information on Seville Bullring ring 954 224 577 or go to www.andalucia.com